Every skill should start with a strong foundation. If you’re here to learn the basics and expand what you know about nails, you’re already taking a great first step.👏 Before you explore gel polish, acrylics, or dip systems, it’s important to build your knowledge in nail structure. In this beginner’s guide, we’ll break down the essential parts of the nail, their functions, why they matter to your work, how to spot healthy nails, and tips for nail maintenance. Time to prep with purpose and care with confidence! Why Nail Anatomy Matters For Nail Techs Picture this: a client starts pointing out specific parts of their nails, and you have no idea what they’re talking about. Uh, sounds awkward, right? That’s why understanding nail anatomy is so crucial for nail techs. It’s not just about knowing where things are; it’s about providing proper care, spotting potential health concerns, and performing services safely. When you’re familiar with the vital parts of the nail, you can easily recognize abnormalities, avoid causing damage, and understand how certain nail conditions may reflect overall health. It also shows your clients that they’re in capable, professional hands, and we all know that builds trust. The 12 Key Parts Of The Nail Resources: National Library of Medicine & Medical News Today • Lateral Nail Fold - The skin that folds along the sides of the nail, providing protection and structural support. It helps shield the nail plate from any damage and guides the nail growth. Keeping this area clean and moisturized can help prevent hangnails and infections. • Proximal Nail Fold - This other nail fold covers the base and some sidewalls of the nail, forming a protective barrier for the matrix against trauma and UV rays. It also seals the area to prevent irritants from entering and disrupting nail growth. • Mantle - The mantle is the skin that covers the matrix and base of the nail plate. It safeguards the underlying matrix and plays a role in overall nail health. Damage to the mantle can affect nail growth and integrity. • Cuticle - A thin layer of dead, colorless tissue located at the base of your nails, attached directly to the nail plate. It forms a protective seal over the nail matrix. Gently pushing it back creates a clean canvas for nail polish or enhancements. • Eponychium - Often confused with the cuticle, eponychium refers to the living tissue connected to the nail plate and lies between the skin of your finger and the cuticle itself. It acts as a seal against external irritants and pathogens. Unlike the cuticle, this should never be cut. • Matrix - Known as the growth center of the nail, located beneath the proximal nail fold. This part produces the keratin cells that form the hard nail plate. Damage to the matrix can lead to permanent nail issues, so be extra careful when handling your tools. • Lunula - This is the visible, crescent-shaped (half-moon), white structure you see at the base of your nails. It is the exposed part of the nail matrix. Its presence and appearance can sometimes indicate changes in nail health, but know that every nail has a lunula. • Nail Plate - Hard, translucent part of the nail made of keratin, formed by layers of cells from the matrix. The visible portion that we shape, paint, or enhance every time we go for natural nail services. Around 80% of the nail plate originates from the proximal matrix (base). • Nail Bed - The nail bed is the part located beneath the nail plate that’s rich in blood vessels and nerves. It nourishes the nail and helps anchor it to the finger. A healthy nail bed supports strong, even nail growth. • Hyponychium - Your skin underneath the free edge of the nail, where the nail plate separates from the nail bed. It acts as a barrier, preventing bacteria and debris from entering beneath the nail. A thick, overgrown hyponychium makes the tips feel uncomfortable. • Free Edge - Basically, the tip of the nail. The free edge is the part of the nail that extends past the fingertip. It’s where trimming, filing, and most nail enhancements are done. Ensure that your free edge is properly shaped to protect the nail from breakage. • Onychodermal Band - The onychodermal band is the pinkish, slightly brownish line where the nail bed meets the hyponychium. It serves as the first barrier against physical and microbial threats. Changes in its color may signal significant health issues. Signs You Have Healthy Nails Once we understand basic anatomy, the next step is to determine if our nails are healthy. Indicators of healthy nails include a smooth texture, a pinkish hue, and the absence of spots or discoloration. Additionally, they should be strong yet flexible, not brittle or easily chipped, and not excessively hard. While minor vertical ridges are often normal with age, horizontal ridges (known as Beau's lines) may indicate an underlying health issue. Your checklist of what healthy nails should look like: • Color: Nails are usually pinkish with a visible, whitish lunula (half-moon shape) at the base. • Texture: They should feel smooth, with no pits, grooves, or horizontal ridges. Vertical ridges may appear with age and are usually harmless, but it’s still best to have a Dermatologist check them out. • Thickness: Healthy nails have uniform thickness, not paper-thin or overly thick. • Shape: They should have a natural, slightly convex outward curve with no indentation or pitting. • Strength: Your nails should be durable enough to withstand everyday wear and tear, but still have some flexibility to prevent breaking. • Cuticle: The cuticle should be intact, not dry or peeling, and firmly attached at the base of the nail to protect the other parts from infection. Note: Please seek advice from a medical professional if you have any worries regarding your nails or believe a consultation is necessary. Remember that only a doctor can truly validate and provide the reassurance you need for your health concerns. Pro Tips For Maintaining The Nails Here are several points to consider for keeping your nails healthy, according to the American Academy of Dermatology Association. 1. Use a moisturizing cream to hydrate your nails, especially after removing nail polish. These removers include substances that can dehydrate the nails. 2. To avoid infection, refrain from cutting or aggressively pushing back your cuticles. If you need to push them back, do it gently only after a shower or bath. 3. Do not use artificial nails to mask nail issues, as they can make the problem worse. Artificial nails are not advised for individuals susceptible to fungal infections or those with weak nails. For individuals with healthy nails, artificial nails can be acceptable as long as they can maintain and protect the natural nails from any issues. 4. To trim your fingernails, cut almost straight across the nail. Use a nail file or emery board to gently smooth the corners of the nails, as this helps maintain their strength and stops them from catching on items such as clothes or furniture. 5. Please avoid using your nails as a tool–a huge no-no for opening soda cans or picking up heavy items. Doing so can cause damage, such as chipping, splitting, or lifting of the nail bed. 6. If you notice a change in the color, texture, or shape of your nail, consult a board-certified dermatologist. Although certain changes are harmless, others might indicate a health issue, such as melanoma or a fungal nail infection. Be observant about your nail allergies as well, and never self-diagnose. Doctors should be your first and only option. Mastering nail anatomy might seem so small or insignificant (especially when your focus is improving your nail art skill), but trust us when we say that it makes a huge difference in how you tackle each nail issue and handle and care for your client’s nails. The more you understand what’s underneath all the nail designs, the more you become confident and trusted in the nail industry. Do you have any pro tips you want to share with our iGel Beauties? Share them on our Facebook community to inspire other nail techs! Great nails start with great knowledge, and we’re sure of that! ──────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────── Written by Alyssa Bueno on July 2, 2025 Alyssa Bueno, a true beauty enthusiast, brings her passion for writing and beauty to life as a writer for iGel Beauty. With a diverse editorial background and industry expertise, Alyssa shares the latest trends and curates tutorials and tips to inspire nail lovers worldwide.
